Ballester Colt o fn guia de compra

Publicado por mariano3230, Abril 21, 2009, 09:54:55 PM

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mariano3230

Amigos:
Recien estoy empezando con esto y quisiera comprarme una .45 historica como Ballester, Colt 1911A1 o Fn quisiera que me ayudaran a hacer una lista de cosas que le tengo que revisar para ver si esta en buen estado.
DEsde ya muchas gracias.
MAriano

luisoca

#1
Cita de: "mariano3230"Amigos:
Recien estoy empezando con esto y quisiera comprarme una .45 historica como Ballester, Colt 1911A1 o Fn quisiera que me ayudaran a hacer una lista de cosas que le tengo que revisar para ver si esta en buen estado.
DEsde ya muchas gracias.
MAriano
Estimado Mariano:
Entre las cosas que hay tener en cuenta:
1º Que el encastre de los tetones del cañón, y de la corredera sea limpio, y tengan los bordes vivos, que no estén como remachados.
2º Que la corredera y el frame, no tengan mucho juego, que no sea una maraca al sacudirla.
3º Fíjate por dentro de la corredera que no haya fisuras.
4º Y lo más importante es que te la vea alguien que sepa y sea ajeno a la venta.
Saludos cordiales,
Luí¬s

Taurus

#2
Que tal mariano3230
Como bien te dijo luisoca, fijate el juego de la corredera, cuando yo compré la mía, estuve viendo un montón, y el juego que tenían era tremendo, pero ojo por que también vas a encontrar alguna que no tenga juego, pero puede ser que este prensada. Fiajate también el estado del cañon. Otra cosa que probé yo es el seguro, ya que en una no trababa, no se si es muy importante a la hora de la compra, pero ya que estas fijate. Y después fijate el estado general, que no tenga golpes, fisuras, etc
Y lo fundamental si podes probarla.
Saludos

Nicomat

#3
Si compras una colt 1911 saca la chapita que retiene la aguja percutora y fijate que tiene que tener el nª de serie grabado en esa seccion de la corredera.
No serias el primero que le venden un frame de colt y una corredera de sistema con la leyenda del caballito (regrabada)

Yo al comprar la mia no sabia esto y de haberlo sabido creo que hubiese sido lo primero que me hubiese fijado.
Por suerte cuando me lo dijeron me fije y tenia el numerito, pero no te imaginas que nervios que tenia hasta que me fije.

PD.: es muy importante el tema del juego frame/corredera ya que no debe ser exesivo pero tampoco son relojes suizos.
Tienen algo de juego.

Que andas buscando y en que valores????????????

Piero71

#4
otro punto a tener en cuenta: Apretá el disparador, sin soltarlo, accioná la corredera (no la acompañes con la mano, soltala y que vuelva sola). El martillo debe quedar montado. Repetilo varias veces...

Duque_

#5
Espero que sepas inglés...
Aunque no lo sepas... algunas de las imágenes son lo suficientemente claras.

---------------------------------

Buying a used 1911

When considering the purchase of a USGI or other older 1911-type pistol, one fact must bear in mind: regardless of condition, they are all used. Even if it's supposedly like new in the box, somebody else still previously owned it. Maybe just the government, maybe the war vet who bought it home, maybe ten bajillion other collectors before you. In any event, when inspecting a firearm with an eye for possible acquisition you'll need to determine its true condition. This applies not only to the usual items (remaining original finish, correct parts and markings, etc.) but also its mechanical condition. You certainly don't want to buy a gun that's only useful as a paperweight or wall hanger, even if you don't intend to ever actually fire it. Mechanical condition also affects value, for obvious reasons. Even if the pistol appears to be in like-new shape, if it has suffered some sort of damage or isn't in safe working order it won't be worth much to anybody.

The following information, while pertaining mostly to USGI guns is still applicable to any used 1911-type pistol, commercial or military.

Initial inspection

The first thing to look at is the overall condition of the outside of the pistol, including underneath the grips (take a screwdriver with you when you go shopping).

Things to check for:

*Original finishes and correct parts. Non-original finish, incorrect parts or obvious modifications are something to be wary of.

*Correct assembly. I've seen several 1911s where the mainspring housing pin and hammer pin were switched, which is easy to do and a sign of incompetent assembly. While in itself not a big deal and easily rectified, it may be a sign that somebody was messing with things they shouldn't. Check that the plunger tube and grip screw bushings are securely staked in the frame.

*Finish wear. If the finish is worn in the usual areas (front strap, sharp edges, etc.) there's nothing to alarmed over. However, lack of finish in areas that don't normally see wear, when the other high-wear areas are fine indicates something isn't right. Be advised however that some areas typically show finish wear for reasons that new collectors may not recognize. An example is on the right side of the frame in front of the serial number. Often the finish will be worn in that location because of the brass flap hold-down button on the M1912 leather holster abrading it over time (a sewn-in piece of leather protected the pistol from the brass button, but the pressure eventually wore the finish anyway). Another example is the front left side of the dust cover, which also receives an abnormal amount of contact wear from the rough leather inside the holster.

*Rust, pitting, or corrosion. The three are different forms of damage, but they are all a bad thing. Rust is obvious, a reddish-brown crusty matter resulting from exposure to moisture (or some acids) that destroys the finish and begins to attack the metal underneath. Once this happens the result is pitting, the tiny "potholes" formed in the metal after it gets eaten away. Corrosion is like rust/pitting, but it is usually the result of exposure to strong acids or other chemicals, or even blood. It can leave small pits, or it can also eat up a large surface area at once.

*Cracks or peening damage. Look closely at the slide and frame for signs of cracking. See photo below for areas to inspect.

Duque_

#6
1911 Function Check

The following steps are necessary when evaluating any M1911-type pistol that you plan on purchasing, in order to verify that the pistol is in safe working condition. Even if you have no plans to ever shoot the pistol, by verifying the working condition of the gun you will get an idea as to its true condition, and also feel assured that you are buying a real working firearm and not just an expensive paperweight. If the pistol fails these safety checks and you plan on purchasing it anyway, you MUST either have it repaired by a competent gunsmith or else make sure that live ammunition is never fired in the pistol. Either find a tasteful way to mark it as being "not safe to fire", or else disable the firing mechanism completely.
It should also be understood that merely passing these safety checks does NOT guarantee that the pistol in question is safe to fire. Due to other factors such as improper headspace, metallurgical flaws, etc. it is still necessary to have a gunsmith check the firearm over before firing live ammunition in it. These safety checks are merely for your use at the time of sale, in order to do a quick verification that there is nothing seriously wrong with the pistol. Once again, have a gunsmith check over ANY used gun you buy before taking it to the range!

SAFETY WARNING:

Performing these checks involves actuating the pistol's firing mechanism. DO NOT attempt any of these checks if you are not completely familiar with the operation of a 1911-type handgun. These checks are also only applicable to U.S. military-issue M1911/M1911A1 pistols, NOT any other types or models of firearms even if they may appear similar in appearance or operation.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THESE CHECKS UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE MADE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT THE GUN IS UNLOADED.
IF YOU ARE NOT SURE HOW PROPERLY UNLOAD THIS TYPE OF PISTOL YOU MUST FIRST SEEK THE ADVICE OF A QUALIFIED INDIVIDUAL. THE AUTHOR OF THIS WEBSITE HAS NO CONTROL OVER YOUR USE OF COMMON SENSE AND KNOWLEDGE OF FIREARMS, AND AS A RESULT NO LIABILITY IS EXPRESSED NOR IMPLIED. Safety involving the following procedures is SOLELY the responsibility of, and can be controlled only by the person actually handling the firearm.

Duque_

#7
sigue

Duque_

#8
fin

mariano3230

#9
uhhhhhhhhh duque te recontra pasaste ya la ponga ami cuñada a traducir .
muchisimas gracias :sm137:
Mariano